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Build it19 August 20268 min read

What an Arduino starter kit actually costs in Rawalpindi — and what not to buy

About Rs 1,600 buys everything your child needs for a first Arduino project. Here is the real bill of materials with twin-cities prices, the traps that waste money, and the honest answer on cheap clone boards.

By The Robonamix team

A few weeks ago we published a walkthrough for your child's first Arduino project, and it told you to go and buy a board, an LED, a resistor, a breadboard and some jumper wires. Then it left you standing there. It named no prices, no shops, and no way to tell a sensible purchase from a wasteful one. Several parents have since asked us the obvious follow-up question, so here is the answer we should have given the first time.

Short version: about Rs 1,600 buys everything the first project needs. Not Rs 5,000, and not the big boxed kit at the front of the shop. Below is the actual bill of materials, what it costs in the twin cities, where to get it, and — the part nobody will tell you at the counter — what not to buy.

How we checked these prices, and what that means for you

  • Every price here was read off the shop's own website on 19 August 2026. We have linked each one at the bottom so you can check it yourself.
  • We did not ring the shops or walk in. Treat these as listed prices, not quoted ones — phone before you travel.
  • Prices in this market move, and stock moves faster. Anything more than a few weeks past that date should be re-checked.
  • No shop in Rawalpindi or Islamabad publishes a delivery charge, so every total below is before delivery.
  • Shop addresses and phone numbers are as each shop states them on its own site. We have not verified them independently.

The six parts, and what each one costs

This is the whole list for a first project. Six items. Nothing here is optional and nothing is missing.

  1. The board — Arduino Uno R3, about Rs 1,200

    Buy the version with the USB cable in the box. Prices for a bare board start around Rs 999, but a board you cannot plug in is not a bargain, and the cable costs Rs 100-130 on its own. One listing worth knowing about: Electrobes in H-13 sells an Uno R3 at Rs 1,200 that names a 16U2 USB chip and a socketed DIP processor in the title. That combination quietly removes three separate beginner problems at once, and we explain why further down.

  2. A breadboard, 400 holes — Rs 147 to Rs 170

    The half-size one. Your child will not fill it for months. The 830-hole board is Rs 250-280 and the giant 2,900-hole one is around Rs 1,600 — both are further up a road you have not started walking yet.

  3. Jumper wires, male-to-male, strip of 40 — Rs 160 to Rs 170

    Male-to-male is the kind that matters and it is worth understanding why. The Uno's sockets are female and a breadboard's holes take male pins, so male-to-male is the only wire that can join the two. Wires with a socket on one end cannot make that connection at all. Remember this — it is about to sink an entire kit.

  4. LEDs — Rs 60 for a pack of 25, or about Rs 2 each

    Buy the pack. At Rs 2.40 an LED it is cheaper per piece than buying five loose, and your child will burn a few, which is a normal and even useful part of learning. One warning: on the day we checked, all three 5mm LEDs we looked at on the Islamabad shop's site were out of stock. The cheapest thing in the build was the one thing they could not sell us.

  5. Resistors, 220 ohm — Rs 10 to Rs 20

    Either 220 ohm or 330 ohm works for an LED. Both shops make you buy a small minimum: one charges Rs 2 each with a minimum of ten, the other Rs 10 for a single resistor. Same part, five times the price per piece, so it is worth a glance at the minimum before you order.

  6. A USB A-to-B cable — Rs 100 to Rs 130, and only if the board came without one

    It must be a data cable, not a charge-only one. This is on the list purely because the cheapest headline board prices are the cable-less ones. Buy the board with the cable included and this line disappears.

Add those up and you land between Rs 1,540 and Rs 1,610 depending on which shop you use — Rs 1,200 for the board, Rs 160-170 for the breadboard, Rs 160-170 for the wires, Rs 60 for the LED pack, Rs 10-20 for resistors. Call it about Rs 1,600, before delivery. That is the real number.

If you want to buy for the term rather than the afternoon, another Rs 500 or so adds the parts that make the next three or four projects possible: a strip of male-to-female wires (Rs 170), a few push buttons (Rs 10 each), a knob-type potentiometer (Rs 30-40), a buzzer (Rs 30-40), a light sensor (Rs 20), and the ultrasonic distance sensor at Rs 210 that is the first part which makes a project feel like a robot. That takes you to roughly Rs 2,140 and buys months, not one Saturday.

Should you just buy a starter kit instead?

This is the question every parent asks in the shop, and the honest answer has two halves that people usually collapse into one.

The cheapest kit we found that can genuinely build the first project is Rs 4,340. The cheapest one you can walk into a Rawalpindi shop and hold is Rs 4,750. The one with the most in the box is Rs 5,500 in Islamabad. Against a working first project at about Rs 1,610, that is two-and-a-half to three-and-a-half times the price — and the extra does not even cover the obvious next steps, because the eight parts your child is most likely to want next come to about Rs 1,100 bought separately. Rs 1,610 plus Rs 1,100 is Rs 2,710, still well under the cheapest kit, and that pile includes a temperature sensor and an ultrasonic sensor which the Rs 4,340 kit does not contain at all.

But the second half matters too, and it is the half that kit-bashing blog posts always skip: the kits are not a rip-off. We priced the Rs 4,340 kit's contents piece by piece, and just the thirteen items we could find individual prices for already came to about Rs 2,740 — before counting its LCD screen, its dot-matrix display, its seven-segment displays, its stepper motor and its prototyping shield. You are getting your money's worth. It is simply the wrong purchase for a child who has not yet blinked one LED.

The kits are fair value for what is in them, and bad value as a way to blink one light. Buy the six parts. If your child finishes three projects and comes back asking for more, then buy the kit — you will know by then that it will get used.

What not to buy

This is the section we most wish someone had handed us. Every one of these is a real listing on a real Pakistani shop's site right now.

  1. The kit whose wires cannot reach

    There is a Rs 2,000 starter kit — the cheapest we found anywhere — whose contents list reads, word for word, '10 x Male to female jumper wires', with no male-to-male wires anywhere in the box. As above, those cannot connect the board to the breadboard. It is a kit advertised on its jumper wires whose jumper wires are the wrong kind. Read the contents list for both types before you buy any kit.

  2. The board that arrives invisible

    Most cheap Uno and Nano boards swap Arduino's USB chip for a cheaper one called a CH340, which Windows does not recognise out of the box. The board plugs in, nothing happens, no port appears, and it looks exactly like you bought a dead board. You did not — it needs a small driver installed once, and Arduino documents the whole thing. If you would rather skip the problem entirely, buy a board whose listing names a 16U2 instead.

  3. The bigger board, because bigger sounds better

    The Arduino Mega is around Rs 3,000-3,750 against roughly Rs 1,200 for an Uno. It is not faster — both run at 16 MHz on the same family of chip. It buys extra pins and memory, and a child blinking an LED uses two of the Uno's fourteen pins. Buy the Uno.

  4. The ESP32, as a first board

    It is genuinely tempting: about the same price as an Uno, with WiFi and a faster processor. But it runs on 3.3 volts in a world where nearly every beginner tutorial, and every sensor in a bargain sensor box, assumes 5 volts. Espressif's own documentation warns that going above 3.6 volts on a pin needs protection. It is an excellent second board and a frustrating first one.

  5. The 37-in-1 sensor box

    Around Rs 2,320, and it sounds like the deal of the century. In practice more than half the modules are the same few ideas repeated — five LEDs, five magnetic sensors, four temperature sensors — while the box contains no board, no breadboard and no jumper wires, so out of the packet it connects to nothing. It also has no ultrasonic sensor, no servo and no display, which are exactly the three parts that make a project feel alive. One more thing worth knowing: the standard version of this kit includes a mercury tilt switch — a sealed glass capsule of liquid mercury — which is a category of product the Minamata Convention phased out of manufacture and international trade from 2020. That is an odd thing to find in a box marketed at children, and a rolling-ball tilt switch does the same job with no mercury in it.

  6. The 12-volt adapter, because more volts sounds like more power

    The Uno is specified for 7 to 12 volts in, and it does not convert the surplus — it burns it off as heat. Feed it 12 volts with a motor attached and the board gets hot and starts resetting mid-project, at which point everyone blames the code. For a first project you do not need a power supply at all: the laptop's USB port is regulated, free, and the cable is already plugged in to upload the sketch.

  7. A phone charging cable

    The most common false alarm of the lot. Plenty of cheap USB cables carry power but have no data wires inside, so the board lights up and still refuses to accept a single line of code. Arduino's own troubleshooting guide leads with this. Test the cable on something else first.

  8. Anything, without checking a second listing

    We found the identically-titled Uno at Rs 1,200 in one shop and Rs 1,850 in another. We found the same beginner kit listed twice by the same shop, item-for-item identical, at Rs 3,750 and Rs 4,340. Searching the exact product title before you order is thirty seconds that regularly saves several hundred rupees.

The clone question, answered properly

Every parent eventually notices that the official Arduino Uno costs about €29 from Arduino's own store in Italy, while the board in the Pakistani shop is Rs 1,200, and wonders whether they are buying something inferior or something dishonest. It is a fair question and it deserves a straight answer rather than a snobbish one.

Start with the practical fact that settles most of it: Arduino's own list of official distributors does not include Pakistan. There is no authorised channel here. Whatever is on the shelf in Rawalpindi came another way, and a board at Rs 1,200 is not a genuine Italian-made Uno at any exchange rate.

Now the part that surprises people. Buying a clone is not piracy, and Arduino invited it. The hardware is released as open source, and Arduino's own position is that anyone may copy and further develop an Arduino design into their own product, provided they use their own brand name and logo. Boards sold honestly as compatible or clone boards are operating exactly as intended. What is not allowed is a counterfeit — a board carrying the Arduino name and logo to make you think it is genuine. So the useful instinct is the opposite of the obvious one: a listing that says plainly 'clone', 'compatible', 'CH340' or 'SMD' is being honest with you, and a cheap board advertised as 'original, made in Italy' is the one to walk away from.

Does the clone actually teach worse? No. Nothing a beginner does in their first six months needs a genuine board — the software is identical, the sketches are identical, and the lessons are identical. There is one thing worth paying a small premium for, though, and it is not the brand. Look for a board with a socketed processor, the kind that sits in a holder rather than being soldered flat. Sooner or later your child will connect the wrong two things and kill the chip. On a socketed board that is a cheap replacement; on a fully soldered one it is a dead board. Arduino's own store makes the same point about its socketed design.

The real risk with a cheap board is not that it works badly. It is that it arrives dead, which is a returns problem rather than a quality problem — and returns are about where you buy, not what you spend. Buy in person from a shop that will swap a dead board, plug it in the same day, and upload the blink sketch before the return window closes. Do that and the risk more or less disappears.

Where to buy, in and around the twin cities

The twin cities have their own electronics bazaar and it is DAV College Road in Rawalpindi. Several shops there list Arduino boards and components, and one of them — College Road Electronics, which gives its address as the basement of Azhar Shaheed Plaza — has a starter kit page showing Rs 4,750 and in stock, along with cash on delivery and same-day delivery within the twin cities. That is the strongest evidence of actual local stock we found.

In Islamabad, Electrobes in H-13, opposite NUST Gate 2, publishes the clearest delivery terms of anyone: 24 hours to the twin cities for orders placed before 4pm, cash on delivery accepted. Their site showed the Rs 1,200 board, the breadboard and the resistors in stock on the day we looked, and the LEDs out of stock — which is a good illustration of why a phone call beats an assumption.

You will also see Lahore's Hall Road named constantly in online searches. Two things worth knowing. First, the biggest online sellers using that name are Lahore operations shipping by courier, typically one to three working days. Second, you do not need them: College Road is twenty minutes away and delivers the same day. Order from Lahore for range and price comparison, buy locally when you want your child building this weekend rather than next week.

Before you go, or before you order

  • Ring first and ask specifically about the LED and the male-to-male jumper wires — the two cheapest things on the list are the two we saw out of stock.
  • Ask whether the Uno comes with the USB cable, and confirm it is in the box rather than in the specifications paragraph.
  • Ask for a board with a socketed processor if they have one, and for a 16U2 rather than a CH340 if you would rather not install a driver.
  • Ask what happens if the board is dead on arrival, and keep the receipt.
  • Ask for the delivery charge before you order — none of the shops publish one.
  • Plug the board in and upload the blink sketch the same day, while you can still take it back.
  • Skip the boxed kit on this first trip. It will still be there in two months, and by then you will know whether you need it.

One last thing, and we mean it as a relief rather than a pitch: you do not have to buy any of this to find out whether your child takes to it. In our sessions the boards, sensors and materials are provided, precisely so that no family has to gamble Rs 1,600 on a maybe. Plenty of parents work it the other way round, though — they buy the six parts, spend a Saturday with their kid and a blinking light, and come to us only once it is obvious the interest is real. Both routes are fine. The one we would gently steer you away from is the Rs 5,000 boxed kit bought on a hunch, which is the version that most often ends up in a cupboard.

Got the parts? Here's the walkthrough: your kid's first Arduino project

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